The India wedding feast tradition known as Puyyappla Perukkal is one of the most extraordinary culinary and cultural customs in the world — a 700-year-old practice from Kerala’s coastal city of Thalassery, where a groom is honored with 100 different dishes over 40 days by his new mother-in-law.
This epic wedding ritual is not merely about food; it’s a deeply rooted symbol of respect, family bonding, and cultural continuity, reflecting the historic blend of Arabian, Persian, Dutch, British, and Indian influences that shaped Kerala’s Malabar Coast.
A Feast Born from Faith and Family
Nestled along India’s spice-rich southwestern shores, Thalassery was once a thriving hub of the global spice trade. The city’s famed production of cardamom, pepper, and cloves drew colonial powers like the Portuguese, Dutch, and British — and over centuries, their legacies intermingled with local Muslim and Hindu traditions to form Kerala’s rich culinary identity.
Amid this melting pot, the Mappila Muslim community developed Puyyappla Perukkal, meaning “nurturing the son-in-law.” This ritual honors the groom as a guest of honor in his bride’s home, where his mother-in-law prepares daily feasts that rarely repeat a dish for 40 days straight.
The roots of this tradition stretch back to Kerala’s Marumakkathayam system — a matrilineal inheritance custom in which women held property and family authority. Over time, this evolved into a culinary celebration of respect and familial harmony, with food as the language of love.
100 Dishes, 40 Days, Endless Flavors
From the day after the wedding, the gastronomic marathon begins. At dawn, the groom is served bread sizzling in ghee, pazham vatti (banana fritters), and boiled eggs, followed by breakfast options like pathiri (rice flour flatbread), ari rotti (rice bread), and ney pathiri (ghee-fried bread) paired with lamb curry.
Later in the day, the table bursts with dishes such as:
- Unnakaya — steamed and mashed plantains filled with coconut and sugar.
- Aleesa — wheat and chicken stew with coconut milk.
- Muttamala — sweet egg yolk threads soaked in syrup.
- Kakka roti — spiced rice bread pockets.
- Ghee rice, mutton biryani, and moodi pathiri (layered rice bread).
Rubeena Kalathiyath, a cook at The Heritage 1866 in Thalassery, says:
“I saw my mother and grandmother preparing these dishes. That’s how I developed a passion for Mappila cuisine. Each dish is made with love and homemade garam masala.”
By the second week, the dinners become heavier, dominated by mutton stews, chicken roasts, and a variety of fish delicacies.
Rituals, Respect, and “Fish Money”
This grand feast is guided by rituals that reinforce mutual respect between the groom and his new family. One of the most charming customs is known as meen panam, or “fish money.”
Traditionally, fish was considered a luxury, and the groom had to gift his mother-in-law money to include fish in the meal. The bride would often act as the intermediary, secretly handing over the money.
Similarly, chaaya paisa, or “tea money,” was paid for every pot of tea brewed — symbolic of respect for the host’s effort and hospitality.
Local homemaker Khadeeja TC recalls that, in earlier times, if a groom disliked the meal, he might show his discontent by leaving the house until elders coaxed him back — a playful yet meaningful exchange that strengthened family bonds.
Decline and Modern Revival
While the Puyyappla Perukkal once graced every Mappila household, modernization and migration have gradually changed its practice. As more families moved to cities or abroad, extended households became rare, and the tradition began to fade.
Today, the ritual survives in smaller, modernized forms. Some families compress the experience into a single grand sitting — 40 dishes served at once to honor the son-in-law.
Still, chefs and cultural advocates in Kerala are working to preserve the tradition.
- At The Heritage 1866 in Thalassery, guests can experience authentic versions of Puyyappla Perukkal dishes.
- Restaurants like Paragon in Kozhikode, Kochi, and Thiruvananthapuram, and Moplah’s in Bengaluru, keep Mappila cuisine alive.
- In London, Malabar Junction serves curated menus inspired by this coastal heritage.
- Culinary expert Abida Rasheed in Kozhikode offers workshops on Mappila cooking.
Books such as Malabar Muslim Cookery by Ummi Abdulla, revered as the matriarch of Mappila cuisine, have also helped document these recipes for the next generation.
A Living Symbol of Kerala’s Culinary Soul
What makes this India wedding feast tradition truly special is not just its scale, but its sentiment. Each meal is a gesture of gratitude — a way for families to strengthen ties through shared labor and love.
In a world moving faster than ever, Puyyappla Perukkal stands as a gentle reminder of the values of patience, respect, and celebration of food as a sacred act.
Even after the last dish is cleared on the 40th day, the aroma of this centuries-old custom lingers — a bond of faith, family, and flavor that continues to define Kerala’s cultural spirit.
Source: BBC Travel
